Paris menswear: UK designers, differing styles mark last day

International

Creative director Bruno Sialelli walks on the stage after the presentation of Lanvin Mens Fall/Winter 2020-2021 fashion collection Sunday, Jan. 19, 2020 in Paris. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

PARIS (AP) — On the final day of menswear shows in the French capital, Lanvin put on an ode to contrasting styles, while British designers reigned supreme. London designer Craig Green decamped to Paris for his first major show outside of his homeland and British fashion icon Paul Smith showcased his latest designs.

Here are some highlights of Sunday’s fall-winter 2020-2021 menswear designs.

LANVIN STRIKES DISCORD

Dramatic jagged lighting panels were used as decor on the Lanvin show venue’s Brutalist architecture.

In more ways than one, this season was about contrasts.

It infused all aspects of the unisex menswear collection: Each ensemble had a striking contrast in color, motif or style.

A loose navy jacket sat against a white undergarment and shiny vermilion boots. While, voluminous white sheer sleeves with a historic-feel were twinned with an intentionally-clashing check skirt.

A pared down or minimalist mood pervaded the 56 looks — in keeping with the direction the brand has moved as a whole since general changes last year that saw Bruno Sialelli named creative director.

The house continues to capitalize on their “come back” after several years of creative turbulence.

CRAIG GREEN DEBUTS IN PARIS

In his first ever Paris show — and his first calendar show outside of London — British designer Craig Green made a splash.

There was much anticipation on the move from his homeland, especially as British Vogue has deemed him one of the most important current London-based designers.

Green developed a cutting-edge aesthetic after internships with fashion forward names Walter van Beirendonck and Henrik Vibskov that led to collaborations with Moncler.

On Sunday, straps, long banding and geometric padding were dominant features in the designs that seemed fused with the show’s bags.

Long straps, tassels and abstract paneling came on the collection’s rather statement geometric bags in brooding colors such as dark gunmetal, eggshell and silver.

A transgressive, even aggressive, feeling appeared at times when the padding on the clothes and bags resembled army flaks. Green is a designer to watch.

PAUL SMITH

British fashion legend Paul Smith carried out a stylish collection — spanning from traditional statement coats, polka dots to total look denim. Varied themes defined the show.

The Smith signature of loosely proportioned suits came in beautifully selected hues of dark pastel red, cadmium blue, copper red and vermilion among others this season.

On coats, lapels were sometimes slightly jagged — a small flash of detail on the largely understated and pared-down designs.

Total look denim might sound like a simplistic thought, but Smith’s masterful use of extra thick fabric gave jackets a nice, armor-like feel.

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